Cyber-Hand's Forge

i would also like to know this. a version cyberhand and IXRolloutIx collaborated on was mentioned.

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The Titan Scale is due for one very very tiny tweak iirc. The Villiager Scale is still the model from months back that is seen the most throughout the topic, and will eventually get the final update later on.

Saddly not. All of my pepkura was from a few years ago and I wasnā€™t very good at documenting my work back then. As far as I know these are the only images I have of the project and they are just the raw carboard put together.

I reccomend that you find out how much they are charging for the use of the printer. It would be pointless if I make the files and then it turns out that it is still going to be out of your budget. I also charge $40 to make a basic 3d model.

Not yet. Though the current version is practically done. The best material would be Acrylate. It gives the best finish/detail/strength for its price. I got a report that someone punctured their thumb on the cheek spikes of the villiger scale.

Saddly it seems like something always comes up and stops me from working on it in my free time. This time I am getting ready to move house.

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@Cyber-Hand So I got the classic-styled MOFā€¦

It looks superb, but as you can see in the third photo thereā€™s not quite enough room for the head at the top, pushing the connector prongs out of place a touch. Iā€™m perfectly happy with it, but Iā€™d suggest either moving the prongs down ever so slightly, or raising the cranium of the mask a little bit.

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The 3D printing class is free for me.
Umā€¦
Iā€™ll pass if it is $40.
I can make a cardboard mask to start with, like Eljay. :slight_smile:


2/15/17 edit:
I cast my first Bionicle mask with molding putty and clear epoxi.






It has a lot of bubbles, it is too flexible and squishy, and it didnā€™t mold right.
Pretty good for a first attempt, though! :sweat_smile:

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@Cyber-Hand Have you ever thought of 3D printing injection molds for for your custom Bionicle pieces? Iā€™ve been thinking of doing it with one of my models: a clean up
I currently canā€™t 3D print anything myself at the moment due to needing a part fixed.
Also, I bought your titan-sized MoUP off of your Etsy shop and canā€™t wait to finally print it. I currently have silver PLA and extremely want to see what a silver MoUP looks like.

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I need that piece in my life.

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I always wanted that piece, itā€™s my dream

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I just ordered the Mask of Fire in flexible polished red, and the pedestal mask of timeā€¦Iā€™ll take pictures after they arrive in March! :smiley:

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Looking very good so far, if you want something stronger and will last, look into Alumilite 80D for anything you wish to dye and Alumilite amazing clear cast for anything transparent. That will give you a much better cast and it isnā€™t too expensive either.

I have thought about it and there are a few things that wonā€™t work.

  1. If I want to do injection molding with abs the same way lego does I am going to need something that can withstand the temperatures of the molten abs. Stuff made from a fdm printer wouldnā€™t be able to stand those temperatures and melt.
  2. the layers seen on the 3d printed models would interfere with the material that I am injecting into the mold, making the pieces really hard to remove.
  3. the plates used to do injection molding will warp over time meaning that each piece will be less accurate than the last.
    That said I think a lot of people would really like that mark you have modeled. Also I am sorry for your printer not working. I know how frustrating that can be.

Awesome I hope it makes it way safely to you and you can make good use of it.

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I wasnā€™t necessarily thinking of injection molding with ABS due to it has the same effect when it is printed with; it gives off cancer genes(toxic fumes). Also, people are already printing molds with the professional, big printers(basically printers from companies like stratasys) using a material called Virtual ABS. I donā€™t know much about digital ABS but it seems interesting.

I have seen a few of them yes. They use either SLA or DLP printers to use resin to make the molds. I will be getting my hands on one of these printers in march. Hopefully it will be able to make the mold pieces and i can give it a go.

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In terms of the layers of a 3D print, my printer is the Prusa i3 MK2 and hoping to try printing a mold when I get a finer resolution tip. It uses a E3D hotend, which they now offer a 0.15mm nozzle(hereā€™s a post on their site about it: http://e3d-online.com/High-Res-015-Nozzles ). Although it might take a day or so, itā€™ll reduce the amount layers that the final product will have.

Edit:
I donā€™t know if I just double posted, I really canā€™t find the rule stating how a double post is done

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Just looked it over and might hane to get one for myself. If it is compatible with your Prusa I3 MK2 do you kno what thread your extruder nozzles are. I might need to pit up a new heater block and a few other parts to make it compatible with my old Replicator 2.
and you didnā€™t double post since you were reponding to my post. you would only have double posted if you made a seperate comment that appeared directly after your first with no other comment in between.

I honestly donā€™t know what thread my extruder nozzle is. Do you mean extruder block or nozzle or do you actually mean extruder nozzle?

Edit
What I do know is that the extruder is an E3D V6 hotend. Thatā€™s all that I can find currently. Doesnā€™t say much about the extruder on the page to buy the Prusa i3 MK2 printer except for genuine E3D hotend

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from what i can find it is a M6 thread. so it should be compatible with mine.

Edit wait i made a mistake it is a M5, so it wonā€™t be compatible.

cool. What printer are you getting that you mention?

Last march I helped a kickstarter for a product called the OLO Since then they have changed the name to ONO (Not a good name in my opinion, since it sounds like what you would say after something goes wrong.) It was just $100 plus shipping. Here is a link to the website.

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I remember that. I first saw that on youtube. Itā€™s supposed to turn your smartphone into a SLA printer

Close, SLA (Stereolithography) uses lasers to cure photosensitive resin. This is more a DLP (direct light Projection) uses the light from a projector or in this case the phone screen to do the same.